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Ibanez PT-909 Phase Tone

Posted on 12.2.2016 by Vesku Posted in Pedals .

Interesting piece of effect came to my hands to make slight modifications to it.

 

Ibanez PT-909 Phase Tone

 

This one was produced only for short period in early 80’s. The problem is that it can only be powered with 9 volts battery, but not with power supply. Drilling a 12mm hole for new DC power jack is out of question, as these are becoming to be valuable, and permanent modifications would have negative impact to its value. Instead, I ended up to drill a small 3mm hole to the bottom plate, and connect a adapter straight to existing battery clip.

 

PT-909 inside

 

Note the circuit covering plastic shield. There is “Maxon” printed to it. Maxon designed and manufactured many models for Ibanez, including TS808 and TS9,  FL9 Flanger, CS9 Chorus, and AD9 Analog Delay. PT-909 also exist with different bottom plate and DC jack included:

 

PT-909_original

Note the “Maxon” text again inside the battery compartment cover. I don’t know why two different configurations exist, but this one is now happily running with power supply with only small invisible modification in the bottom of the chassis:

 

PT-909 outside

 

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Music Man Silhouette Special

Posted on 30.4.2015 by Vesku Posted in Guitar electronics .

MusicMan3

 

Got this to my hands as I’ve been dealing with guitar electronics quite much. Therefore friends and people connected to them are bringing me instruments to fix. I’m pleased to do such jobs, because it gives me a possiblity to test different instruments. After all, guitar electronics is quite simple thing to understand. Anyone could learn to do such jobs, with just a basic knowledge of electronics.

However, owner wanted to add some boost to existing electronics, and had an idea of adding EHX’s LBP-1 inside the guitar. At first it sounded a bit odd to me, but on the other hand, why not? This guitar already had active electronics, but not active pickups. Instead, there was a active hum-cancelling system, which they call “Music Man Silent Circuit”.  I didn’t want to mess up too much with the existing electronics, as this beauty is worth of over 2000 euros.

The plan was as following:

Skissi

 

Push-pull -potentiometer already existed, as someone had added a possibility to split the bridge humbucker. That possibility was removed, and push-pull was used to switch between straight and boosted signal. With pot down the signal bypasses LBP-1 -circuit. Stereo jack takes care of cutting the power when guitar plug is not connected. I squeezed LBP’s circuit to minimum and soldered it to tagboard. Finally I placed it to the bottom of the electronics cavity:

 

MusicMan2

 

The circuit was equipped with trimmer to adjust the amount of boosted signal. All the connections were equipped with quick-couplings to preserve possibility to remove whole the pickguard from guitar if needed. I don’t know if that is very relevant, but the original electronics had this possibility, so I followed the line. With all the electronics put in place there is a hellish traffic rush under the hood:

 

MusicMan1

 

As a result, the whole system works like charm. Totally interference free thanks to the silent circuit system, even with the boost turned on. LBP-1’s circuit is maybe not the most transparent booster, but surely it is one of the simpliest and least current drawing.

The guitar looks just like it was all original, and it could be easily returned to its original state.

 

 

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Current draw list for guitar/bass pedals

Posted on 6.2.2015 by Vesku Posted in Pedals .

Several of these can be found from the internet already, but I will be updating this list based to my own measurements, so I can only list those pedals which I have in hand. Some manufacturers are stating these in their manuals, but they are always with the pedal on. What about when the pedal is off? It is still drawing current as the the circuit is still powered although the signal is bypassed. I’ll update this every time I get a new pedal.

So, let’s say you have a Pedaltrain Volto -battery power source. It is stated to be capable of providing a total output power capacity of 500 mAh. You will be powering three pedals, for example Boss ML-2, Fulltone Catalyst, MXR Dyna Comp and MXR Carbon Copy. Current draws for these are 30,3+2,4+4,9+11,3 mA = 48,9 mA considering they are all on. Volto would power them for 500 mAh / 48,9 mA = 10,2 hours. That easy. Or maybe not. Overall working time is affected by overall current draw. Also, you cannot drain Volto totally empty, as it will not feed pedals below certain charge level. So you can only get some estimation of the working time between recharges, as it cannot be calculated exactly.

The power source used is Visual Sound’s 1Spot. All the values are current draws when off/on (max). 

Aria

  • AUM-1 Ultra Metal 8,7 mA / 13,4 mA

BBE

  • Boosta Grande (Big box) 2,5 mA / 3,2 mA

Behringer

  • BO100 Blues Overdrive 11,9 mA / 12,8 mA

Boss

  • BD-2 Blues Driver 11,3 mA / 12,8 mA
  • CE-5 Chorus Ensemble 20,2 mA / 21,2 mA
  • CE-5 Chorus Ensemble w/ Monte Allums TB-relay 23,8 mA / 24,2 mA
  • DS-1 Distortion (dated early 80’s) 4,0mA / 4,2 mA
  • DS-1 Distortion w/ Monte Allums TB-relay 10,7 mA / 12,3 mA
  • ML-2 Metal Core 29,4 mA / 30,3 mA
  • RC-20XL looper 96,3 mA (On, idling)
  • SD-1 Super Overdrive 5,0 mA / 5,8 mA
  • SD-1 Super Overdrive w/ Monte Allums TB-relay 8,4 mA / 9,9 mA
  • TU-3 Chromatic Tuner 17,6 mA / 24,3 mA (On, not tuning)

Carl Martin

  • Red Repeat Delay 29,5 mA / 31,8 mA
  • 2Wah 2,6 mA / 2,6 mA

Catalinbread

  • Formula no. 5  0,6 mA / 1,3 mA

Danelectro

  • Cool Cat Chorus 12,9 mA / 15,7 mA

Devi Ever

  • Karaoke Party 0,6 mA / 0,9 mA

DOD

  • Overdrive Preamp 250 Reissue 0,9 mA / 1,6 mA

Dunlop

  • Fuzz Face Mini Germanium 1,8 mA / 2,3 mA
  • Dunlop Jimi Hendrix JH-2S  Classic Fuzz 1,7 mA / 3,9 mA

EBS

  • Multicomp (Newer, TB-version) 11,6 mA / 11,7 mA
  • Unichorus (Newer, TB-version) 16,5 mA / 17,3 mA

Electro-Harmonix

  • Bass Big Muff Nano Pi 2,3 mA / 3,0 mA
  • Bass Big Muff 2,2 mA / 2,8 mA
  • Neo Clone 6,1 mA / 7,3mA

Fulltone

  • Catalyst 2,5 mA / 2,3 mA (?)
  • Soul Bender 2,3 mA / 1,9 mA (?)

FYA Electronics

  • Fancy Change Fuzz 1,0 mA / 1,3 mA

Ibanez

  • Chorus Mini (CSMini) 7,5 mA / 20,6 mA
  • Delay Mini (ADMini) 21,6 mA / 34,1 mA
  • TS-5 3,9 mA / 5,5 mA

Korg

  • Pitchblack PB-01 0,1 mA / 23 mA (On, not tuning)
  • Pitchblack Poly PB-03 0,1 mA / 16,4 mA (On, not tuning)

Mad Professor

  • Sweet Honey Overdrive 3,9 mA / 5,4 mA
  • Blueberry Bass Overdrive 2,6 mA / 4,3 mA
  • Stone Gray Distortion 6,5 mA / 7,1 mA

Marshall

  • Blues Breaker Mk.1 2,5 mA / 4 mA
  • Drive Master 2,7 / 4,2 mA

MoVall

  • Scorpion 9,4 mA / 10,6 mA

MXR

    • Dyna Comp (Late TB-version) 0,9 mA / 3,1 mA
    • Carbon Copy 11,9 mA / 11,4 mA (?)
    • M89 Bass Overdrive 19,0 mA / 19,4 mA

J.Rockett

  • 10 Ton Hammer 5,1 mA / 5,3 mA

Pigtronix

  • Fat Drive 30,1 mA / 30,4 mA

TC Electronic

  • Ditto Looper 67,5 mA / 70,4 mA (Off/Recording)
  • Polytune Mini Mk.1 15,6 mA / 45 mA (On, not tuning)
  • Spark Mini Booster 6,8 mA / 7,1 mA

T-Rex

  • Sweeper 2 Bass Chorus 64,7 mA / 84,3 mA

Way Huge

  • Red Llama 2,7 mA / 2,7 mA
  • Aqua-Puss 11,4 mA / 12,7 mA

Warwick

  • Rocktuner PT1 2,8 mA / 15,1 mA (On, not tuning)

Vision

  • MTL-5 Ultra Metal 8,2 mA / 12,3 mA

Xotic

  • AC Booster 5,1 mA / 5,0 mA (?)

Yerasov

  • 5000V 4,1 mA / 6,3 mA

Zoom

  • B3 143 mA (On, idling)

ZVEX

  • Super Hard On 0,8 mA / 2,2 mA
2 Comments .
Tags: Power distribution .

Ampeg BA-108

Posted on 21.6.2014 by Vesku Posted in Amps .

Bought this little beast for some 100 euros to use it as my practice amp in home. However, it had some serious design mistakes, which made this amp a sleeper. Generally, you cannot expect much when a bass amp has a 8″ speaker. In addition, the stock speaker was a piece of crap. So, let’s start from it.

Speaker swap

I explored around the internet to find a suitable speaker for the use. The problem is that BA108’s cabinet’s volume is only around 18 litres. It limits the performance of most the speakers available. Finally I found one which would be suitable for the cab this small. Fane Sovereign 8-125 seemed to be good one for use, and I compared it with the stock speaker using WinISD:

 

Frequencies

 

 

Green is for Fane, purple is for stock speaker. I am considering -3db to be the lower limit of usable frequency range. As we can see, it is 74Hz for the stock speaker, and 61Hz for Fane. Huge difference it is. I wasn’t able to find Thiele/Small -parameters for stock speaker (suprise), so I needed to measure them myself. Resonant frequency is something we are interested about when we are designing a vented cabinet. It is good point to start. I measured it to be 71,5Hz for the stock speaker. I also measured the cabinet and found out that it was tuned to 71Hz. As the resonant frequency for Fane is 65Hz, I needed to modify the reflex tube to tune the cabinet down. After careful measurements I found out that optimal cabinet tuning would be 61Hz for Fane. That means modifying the reflex tube.

 

Modifying the cabinet

The workmanship of the cabinet was at most fair. It leaked from several points causing odd rattling. Glueing every single seam with wood glue fixed the problem. I also added some foam plastic tape used in drain piping. In stock there’s nothing but a small dampening cloth inside the cabinet, which I left there. It was attached very loosely, so I added some five million staples to it to attach it firmly. All the rattling is gone now.

Reflex tube is made of paper pulp and cutted carelessly. The inner end of the tube was uneven and partly collapsed. I bought some plastic drainpipe from the local dealer for 3 euros, and used it as reflex tube by sawing it to appropriate lenght. Used short part of the original tube as a gasket for the new one, because it happened to fit inside the original tube just perfectly.

 

Changing the Op-amp

This amp has an JRC4558 op-amp in it. Not bad, and used widely in Tube Screamer -type overdrive pedals.  However, I decided to swap it, as I had a Burr-Brown OPA2132 in stock. It’s considered to be more hi-fi and tube-like than 4558. For future tests I added a socket in the place of the op-amp. It’s easy to change op-amps now without a need to solder. Also, by acting like this you won’t fry your op-amp with soldering iron during installation.

 

Op-amp

Adding filter caps

By default, this amp has two 3300uF capacitors acting as filter caps. It’s not much, and adding some more should thicken the lower end and give more clean headroom. I also had a buzzing problem. It came from the speaker, but I wasn’t able to find any reason for it. I decided to add two 2200uF caps in parallel with existing ones. Because they were attached very close to the rectifier, I needed to solder the rectifier off, and move it to separate daughterboard along with new filter caps. So it goes like this:

 

Rectifier mod

 

Yes, you can connect poles 2 and 3 backwards. I tried it, and it only blows the fuse. Really, don’t try it. It was just a stupid mistake. After the smoke evaporated, the result is very neat:

 

Filter caps

 

As a result, this little devil has far more power and wider frequency range. I measured the -3db limit to be in 59Hz.  Think about it. It was 74Hz with stock parts. In addition, that odd buzzing is gone. It is widely reported over the internet, so it appears to be a real problem. Crossover distortion? However, adding some filter caps will fix it.

4 Comments .

Passive cabinet merger

Posted on 1.4.2014 by Vesku Posted in Amps, Utility .

I have a situation where I have a guitar amp with just one speaker out, and a switch to select the impedance between 8 and 16 ohms. Now, I want to connect two speaker cabinets with 8 ohms speaker inside both of them. I ended up to build up a simple cabinet merger for future use also. When connecting speakers to amplifier, there is two ways to do it, in series or in parallel. Impedances go like this:

 

Speaker_impedances

 

So basically, it goes like this:

– In series: Rt=R1+R2+Rn…

– In parallel: Rt=1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/Rn…

Where Rt=Total impedance, Rx=Impedance of the single speaker

 

I built up a very simple wiring schematic for cabinet merger with switchable series/parallel -option:

 

CabMerger_schematic

 

 

So, no more than three ordinary jacks and a DPDT switch with some wiring.

NOTE!: If assembled inside conducting enclosure, you need to insulate Speaker out 1’s ground from the enclosure. Otherwise it won’t work correctly in series mode. Alternatively you can build this inside non-conductive plastic enclosure.

Always meet your amplifier’s impedance requirements, and don’t even try connect for example 4 ohms load for the amp which expects 8 ohms speaker load. You will most probably fry your output transformer.

1 Comment .
Tags: Guitar, Speakers, Utilities .

Blackout V-Verb 2

Posted on 17.12.2013 by Vesku Posted in Pedals .

I recently built a Belton reverb brick -based reverb, which I assembled in 1590BB -sized box as the reverb brick was too large to fit into smaller box. Now I got a newer model, which is drastically smaller. Fits now to 1590B:

 

V-Verb2_inside

 

The brick is hiding under circuit board. There is three different versions of this brick with decay length from short to long. This one has medium decay, which seems to be quite all-around -type. I also made some minor adjustments to make this less brittle. Not too many one-knob reverbs in the market. Even less in a smaller box.

 

Blackout V-Verb 2

 

Some off-topic. Last weekend I saw a line-up of a top level finnish metal musicians playing christmas songs in heavy metal style. There was two guitarists playing, and another one was playing with a budget level LTD and some Boss pedals. Guess if he was still amazing. Once again I realized that I can build and buy every pedal in this planet, and it won’t bring me any closer to that sound. I cannot obviously change my fingers. Think about that, folks.

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Tags: Guitar, Reverb .

Sound reactive LEDs

Posted on 3.11.2013 by Vesku Posted in Just for fun, Utility .

I’ve spent a lot of time inspecting how could I build up a system, which blinks LED lights in time with sound. Found some plans from the internet, but they all sucked. At first I tried to use a TIP31 -transistor, which in fact works somehow, but needs a lot of a amplification to work. My bass amp’s effect loop’s send’s signal wasn’t strong enough to blink the light. Added MXR’s Microamp to the line, and it worked just barely.  TIp31 needs  at least 0.7 V to conduct, which you don’t have in most cases. So, f**k the TIP31.

Instead, one good solution is a LM358, which is a low power dual operational amplifier. It can be used to amplify the DC signal generated by a microphone and act as a LED driver. It has DC voltage gain of 100db, and runs with DC-power from 3 volts to 32 volts. The circuit is as following:

 

sound_reactive_leds

I usually hate circuits containing connections between two sequential rows in vero board, but this time I tried to squeeze the circuit as small as possible. The driving signal can be almost anything. Signal from microphone, instrument level signal from guitar…
It’s very sensitive, so instead of amplifying the signal even more, we have to brake it down instead. The sensitivity can be adjusted with the value of R1 -resistor in the circuit. To make it easily adjustable, use appropriate potentiometer in place of the resistor. Something like 5K pot is worth to try. Everything below 1K makes the leds crazy even if you breath too loud.

R2 -resistor is for limiting the current going to the LED’s. If you plan to use several leds in your circuit, you can use a jumper instead, and connect appropriate resistors in led rows. How many led lights you can use in series depends on the input voltage used, and the colour of the leds. Blue and white are the brightest, and with 9 volts current you can run only 2 or 3 in series. It’s up to to the forward voltage of the led light, which is around 3 volts with white and blue. But that’s not a problem, just create several parallel led stripes.

In the video below I’ve built this system inside a 1590B -box. The LED stripes are built into mini sized guitar. I removed the pickup, and assembled the LED stripes into small piece of wood which I installed into humbucker frame. My bass amp’s direct out is used for the operating signal. So, basically it’s just instrument level signal, and 5K resistor pot is used for adjusting the sensitivity. This is our band’s on-stage decoration, and it takes its signal from the bass drum.

 

 

 

2 Comments .
Tags: Decoration, Just for fun .

Pimp your pedalboard

Posted on 25.10.2013 by Vesku Posted in Decorations, Just for fun .

A good sturdy pedalboard and the power block can be mind bogglingly expensive considering the price of the raw materials. It’s very easy to build your own and, in pursuance, add some decoration to it. If I can, you can.

At first, spend some time planning the size and form. Personally I use Autocad with every project as I’ve noticed that drilling and sawing without planning and measuring carefully first becomes quite expensive in the long run. This is my plan done with Autocad:

 

pedalboard_piirustuws

 

Bought the materials from the local lumber trade with some 6 euros. The price included the sawing job for the plywood board.  Took 15 minutes to glue and screw it all together. Personally I dislike commercial powerblocks as they are bulky and expensive for no reason. All I need is an efficient power source with daisy chained cable. The problem with the daisy chain cable is that the branches are always either too long or too short. There is too many of them, or too few. As a result you have power cables crossing here and there. So why not to put separate power jacks into board, and then solder single power cables with appropriate lenght? Like this:

 

pedalboard_virtajakit

 

Eight power feeding jacks can power up more pedals this board can take.

Then the decoration. You know this back and forth moving light from the TV series Knight rider? Got the original idea from Paul in the lab, and developed it a bit more. I added one more 555 -timer chip to create a sequence instead of non-stopping motion. The 555 timer IC is very interesting piece of tech. When used as a astable timer it works basically like this:

 

275px-555_Astable_Diagram.svg

The up and down time are depending on the R1 , R2 and C -values, and the total lenght of the sequence is depending on the C-value. Uptime can be calculated with following equation:

Uptime = ln(2)*(R1+R2)*C

Downtime from each pulse is equated like this:

Downtime = ln(2)*R2*C

Don’t mind the tech talk, but use some online calculator to get the result you want. In my case I needed 3,6s of uptime and as long frequency as possible. 3,6s is time which the circuit needs to go back and forth once. Then it takes 3 seconds break and starts again. The only limitation is that the duty cycle can never be less than 50% in this circuit. All this collected together the circuit looks like this assembled into vero board:

Knight rider

Feel free to use it for your needs. The correct values are R1=5,6Kohm, R2=47Kohm and C=100uF. If you want you can use a switch which selects if the circuit is working continuously, or by the sequence. “+9V” is for the sequential operation, “Vin” for continuous. All the diodes are 1N4148. Notify the double link below the CD4017. Assembled in the pedal board with blue leds looks nice. Too bad I don’t have a video. I added a switch to turn the whole circuit off when needed. If you do the same, just cut either the ground or the current wire with appropriate switch to do this.

 

pedalboard_knightrider

 

Some glowing light still to add. Used 5mm ultrabright leds in both sides of the board:

 

pedalboard_valot

 

Powering up the leds is something to talk about. LED diodes always need a resistor when used with 9V voltage. Otherwise they will be dead immediatelly when connected. The correct value depends on the color and the amount of the leds. I think blue and white are the only ones bright enough for use.  The forward voltage for both the blue and white led is around three volts. Try three leds in series, and if all the leds light up, then leave like it this. If not, use two leds in series, and the third one parallel.

The resistor values are something like 150 ohms for the leds in series, and 300 ohms for the single one. White led is usually a bit brighter than the blue one, so experiment. In any case, the result is a eye burning floodlight, so do not stare straight to it. It still safe because it’s directed towards the floor.

I assembled the led strips to the rail meant for hiding cables:

 

pedalboard_valot2

 

Only competition stripe to add. electrical tape is good for this:

 

Pedalboard

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Blackout Hehku

Posted on 26.9.2013 by Vesku Posted in Pedals .

I recently wrote about the vintage fuzz from 70’s, which I got from my friend, and provided ahead to pedal collector. Promised my friend to build a clone for him. The layout is as following:

 

Tonebender 3 Knob smallest

 

As it’s working with -9V, I slightly modified it to get it working with a regular Boss-type power supply. The needed modifications are reversed electrolytes and diode, nothing more. Because Carlsbro’s fuzz is actually a circuit clone of the MkIV, there is some additional modifications. The resistor between tone 2 and volume 2 is 120K instead of 220K, and the volume pot’s value is B200k instead of B100k. Transistors in my build are russian MP38A’s from the 70’s. Pure USSR NOS-parts together with germanium diode 1N034 bring tons of a mojo to this. I had minor difficulties in finding MP38A’s  pinout, so I’ll put it there in case somebody is in the same situation:

MP38A_pinout

 

Finished this and connected it to my pedal chain. Believe me, this one has the sound the feeling! All the mojo combined with heavenly fuzz sound makes this overwhelmingly the best fuzz I’ve ever heard. I immediately turned the soldering iron back on, and created another one for myself. It moved to my pedal board permanently.

Talking about the pedal chain. Fuzzes with germanium transistors don’t like “seeing” anything before them. They need to be the first pedal in your chain. Otherwise there can be drastic impact in tone response. Well, of course this is something clearly depending on one’s taste. Feel free to experiment, but this is my opinion.

The name of this pedal is coming from the biker club I am connected to. It’s spealized in russian motorcycles, so how appropriate. The one I gave away is optionally operable with 9V battery. I don’t need it myself, so mine isn’t.

 

Hehku2_inside

Hehku_inside

Blackout Hehku

 

 

 

 

2 Comments .
Tags: Fuzz, Guitar .

Blackout Blue Angel

Posted on 1.9.2013 by Vesku Posted in Pedals .

Chorus and delay pedals are always the last two pedals in my effect chain. So why not to combine them into one 1590BB -enclosure. Made a basic circuit arrangement myself:

 

Aqua_kytkentäkaavio

Chorus

There’s not too many alternatives in delay and chorus circuits which can be built in vero board. I first inspected the possibility to use Modtone’s Aqua Chorus by just rehousing it, but it appeared to be too large. Found a schematic of this Little Angel Chorus, which can be built in 19×18 -sized vero board. Sounds all right, but I had some issues with PT2399 -IC, which is the actual heart of the circuit. It locked up once, so I needed to add a separate anti-locking daughterboard.  It would have been possible to fix the existing circuit board, but I decided to leave it alone as it was working other than that. I also noticed that the depth pot (B500K) had any effect only at the end of its range. I changed it to C500K to spread the usable range of the sweep.

 

Blue Angel_Chorus_circuit

Chorus circuit

 

Delay

Mad Professor’s Deep Blue Delay is also quite compact being sized 18×19 assembled in vero board. It has the same IC (PT2399) that the chorus side has. Not any issues with that in this circuit. It worked right away.  Three knobs is all I need in delay pedal, so this is a good choice for me. The only thing I forgot was to connect the mix-knob’s one lug to the ground. It worked a bit oddly, I must say. I still was able to find a spot where it was working just ok. Still, I couldn’t stand it for long as it bothered me anyway, so I opened the box once again, and saw the reason immediatelly without a need to reassemble the whole thing.

 

Housing

As mentioned before, the enclosure is 1590BB. I made a separate daughterboard for +9V- and grounding distribution. Also placed the on/off  LEDs’ resistors into this board. With two jacks, one power jack, two circuit boards, two daughterboards, five pots and two switches it still fits quite easily into enclosure:

 

Blue Angel_inside

Input signal goes via the first footswitch either to the chorus circuit, or to the second footswitch. Then it goes either to the delay circuit, or to the output jack. With both footswitches unengaged the signal goes from jack to jack unaffected. I prefer having chorus effect before delay, but it can be either way. It’s very easy to change them afterwards if needed. Just swap the input and output signal wires between the footswitches.

Decals are made by Olli from CIS Decals, who’ve made the stickers and decals for many of my pedals.

Blackout Blue Angel:

 

Blackout Blue Angel

1 Comment .
Tags: Guitar, Modulation .
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Recent posts

  • Ibanez PT-909 Phase Tone
  • Music Man Silhouette Special
  • Current draw list for guitar/bass pedals
  • Ampeg BA-108
  • Passive cabinet merger

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